Ephesus

Thursday, May 27 - Ephesus

Remember when Edward, Peter, Lucy, and Susan returned to Narnia in the book Prince Caspian? But it was many years later and they don't remember their lives as kings and queens at first, even as they stand amongst the ruins of their former kingdom?
How I felt walking through Ephesus reminded me of the part of Prince Caspian where they start to "wake up" and remember the grandeur of their lives in Narnia. What amazing splendor existed in antiquity and what incredible ruins still exist to help you imagine what it must have been like to walk those mosaic tiled halls and marble columned walkways. The Romans really knew how to make beautiful and lasting monuments to their empire! The day was really sunny and aside from gawking the amazing sites and thinking about the Chronicles of Narnia, I spent most of my time at Ephesus hustling from one shady spot to the next to stay cool and avoid a burn.
We left Ephesus and headed back to Istanbul late Thursday and have spent Fri and Sat here enjoying our last few days in the city. We are about to go out to dinner and do some final shopping before we come back to pack and sleep well before our 9 AM flight. When we're back in the hotel later I want to write more about Istanbul because I'm in love with this city!

Pamukkale and Cleopatra's pool - Weds, May 26

At Pamukkale on Wednesday we did an amazing tour of the "Cotton Castle" cliffs and Hieropolis (sp?). The highlight of the day for me was taking a swim in "Cleopatra's pool" at the top of the cliffs. We literally swam and climbed over and around Roman columns and other ancient ruins that rest on the bottom of this beautiful pool of warm iron-rich natural spring water. After a sweaty walk at the top of the cliffs through the remains of Hieropolis, a swim in this exotic setting, even at 25 lira extra (about $15), couldn't have felt better.
Our trip down from the cliffs was memorable too as we walked through the Cotton Castle pools along one edge of the site. The wide terraces create a natural stepping stone type decent to ground level. The setting is so unusual and surreal that we saw many aspiring "next top models" striking poses against the white mineral rocks or in the shallow water, while their friends took countless glamour shots.

Cappadocia - Tues. May 25

I wrote this entry Tuesday on my blackberry while on an 11 overnight bus ride from Cappadocia to Pumakalle, but haven't been able to send it! We are back in Istanbul now for the next 3 nights and so we have wifi again, hooray!

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Tues, May 25:
Cappadocia is a magical land of "fairy chimneys" and underground cities where 2,000 years ago the earliest Christians fled in order to escape persecution from the Roman Empire. Everywhere you look you see sandstone cones left behind after a million years worth of wind and rain carved the structures out of a lake a solid lava. Swept away were the softest, most easily corroded sandstone particles and left behind are these towering beehive cones in which the people dug caves that stayed cool in summer and warm in winter. The "fairy chimneys," as the sandstone cones are called, rise up from the earth in all directions creating an environment reminiscent of some planet in Star Wars.
The underground cities, more than 20 of them in the region, are a web of carved out villages extending 80 meters below the earth's surface, where the hidden communities had stables, wineries, bedrooms, kitchens, ventilation systems and round stone doors that could only be opened from the inside (to keep unwanted persecutors out). They lived in these subterranean labyrinths for as many as 5 years at a time, until the danger had passed.
We are leaving the Cappadocia region now and heading back west. We're on an overnight bus towards Pamukkale where on Wednesday we'll explore the famous "cotton castle" (the translation of Pamukkale), cliff terraces of pools flowing into one another all turned white from the calcium deposits in the warm spring water. At the top of these cliffs are the ruins of the ancient Roman and Byzantine city of Hieropolis and it's famous amphitheater. Then we'll continue on to Kusadasi Weds night for a Thurs tour of Epheses, before returning to Istanbul for two more days (Fri and Sat) and Sunday we come home! Unbelievable how quickly time passes, even when on an overnight 11 hour bus ride across a bumpy terrain, with frequent stops!!
Speaking of the bus ride, before I go back to sleep... There seemed to be a rally going on when we arrived at the bus station. Crowds of men, women, and children, music, dancing, tears... What in the world (literally)!? Well we found out that this is the time of year the young Turkish men of a certain age go off to serve in their military (for I'm not sure how long and I don't know if it's mandatory?), but the send off that their loved ones give them is so touching. They practically won't let them go, and yet they send them off with such national pride, singing their anthem, waving their flag, FOLLOWING the bus and riding alongside the bus hanging out of their cars waving and honking and cheering. One group even STOPPED our bus after it had left the station (surrounded it with their little jettas) and pulled their two men off to sing and salute to them one more time before letting us continue on. The reason I'm awake now at 12:39 AM was the third or fourth joyous sendoff of the night woke me up at our last stop. Enrique has some great videos of the revelry.
I decided to write this while it was fresh in my head, but who knows when I will have wireless again and be able to post it.
Signing off now at 12:44 AM Weds morning on a bus filled with patriots heading west towards the coast! Love, Meagan

May 25 - Cappadocia

(I wrote this entry Tuesday on my blackberry while on an 11 overnight bus ride from Cappadocia to Pumakalle, but haven't had wireless to send it until now! We arrived tonight in Kusadasi and tomorrow we go to Ephesus, but here is an update from yesterday before we arrived in Pumakalle, which I'm sure I'm spelling wrong!)

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Cappadocia is a magical land of "fairy chimneys" and underground cities where 2,000 years ago the earliest Christians fled in order to escape persecution from the Roman Empire. Everywhere you look you see sandstone cones left behind after a million years worth of wind and rain carved the structures out of a lake a solid lava. Swept away were the softest, most easily corroded sandstone particles and left behind are these towering beehive cones in which the people dug caves that stayed cool in summer and warm in winter. The "fairy chimneys," as the sandstone cones are called, rise up from the earth in all directions creating an environment reminiscent of some planet in Star Wars.
The underground cities, more than 20 of them in the region, are a web of carved out villages extending 80 meters below the earth's surface, where the hidden communities had stables, wineries, bedrooms, kitchens, ventilation systems and round stone doors that could only be opened from the inside (to keep unwanted persecutors out). They lived in these subterranean labyrinths for as many as 5 years at a time, until the time of danger had passed.
We are leaving the Cappadocia region now and heading back west. We're on an overnight bus towards Pumakalle (sp?) where on Wednesday we'll explore the famous "cotton castle" (the translation of Pumakalle), cliff terraces of pools flowing into one another all turned white from the calcium deposits in the warm spring water. At the top of these cliffs are the ruins of the ancient Roman and Byzantine city of Hieropolis and it's famous amphitheater. Then we'll continue on to Kusadasi Weds night for a Thurs tour of Epheses, before returning to Istanbul for two more days (Fri and Sat) and Sunday we come home! Unbelievable how quickly time passes, even when on an overnight 11 hour bus ride across a bumpy terrain, with frequent stops!!
Speaking of the bus ride, before I go back to sleep... There seemed to be a rally going on when we arrived at the bus station. Crowds of men, women, and children, music, dancing, tears... What in the world (literally)!? Well we found out that this is the time of year the young Turkish men of a certain age go off to serve in their military (for I'm not sure how long and I don't know if it's mandatory?), but the send off their loved ones give them is so touching. They practically won't let them go, and yet they send them off with such national pride, singing their anthem, waving their flag, FOLLOWING the bus and riding alongside the bus hanging out of their cars waving and honking and cheering, and one group at one of the stops along the way even STOPPED the bus (surrounded it with their little jettas) and pulled their two men off the bus to sing and salute to them one more time before letting us continue on. The reason I'm awake now at 12:39 AM was the third or fourth joyous sendoff of the night woke me up at our last stop. Enrique has some great videos of the revelry.
I decided to write this while it was fresh in my head, but who knows when I will have wireless again and be able to post it.
Signing off now at 12:44 AM Weds morning on a bus filled with patriots heading west towards the coast! Love, Meagan

One of our favorite treats

Pita with cheese... Ridiculously good.

Mosaic of Jesus at Hagia Sofia

Amazing

Hi from the Galata Tower

Which is where we ended our day of sightseeing at sunset! What a way to close out day 2, looking out over Istanbul and two of the places we explored today from ground level... Hagia Sofia and the Topkapi Palace, home for centuries (in the 17th-19th c.) to Sultans, their grand queens, and concubines, eunichs, princes and slaves. There was no mention of princESSES sadly, the girls born to the Sultans weren't mentioned (booo!). But besides that sad, cold reality of life (in certain times and certain parts of the world) the Topkapi Palace was an extraordinary view into the lavish lifestyles of the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire. We saw every jewel you can think of, encrusting everything from baby basinets to daggers, to flasks, to thrones. Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, saphires, topaz, onyx, pearls, you name it... They made the Hope Diamond seem very lonely and almost (almost) small.
And the rooms of the palace shouted "SPLENDOR" with their dome ceilings and mosaic tiles. But to live there (unless you were the Sultan) was for most of his harem, to live a life of imprisonment. A beautiful prison, but a prison none the less. The concubines, eunichs, and princes were not allowed outside the gates, to protect the Sultan's hold on power.
I'd love to write more, because the Hagia Sofia blew me away, but it's late and tomorrow we wake up early to go to Cappadocia! I will upload a couple photos if I can from the rest of our day. I don't know if our next hotel will have internet or wireless but since it's in a more remote area I'm thinking possibly not. So until next time, love from here to you!!

The Blue Mosque, ancient Byzantine art, and a little rain

We had a somewhat rainy day today, but a $4 umbrella from a street vendor and some incredible sights made up for it.
We started out at The Blue Mosque, a 5 minute walk from our hotel. The intricate mosaics and beautiful frescos covered every inch of the walls and domes. With the predominat color weaving everything together being blue, the fav color of the Sultan who built the mosque in the erly 17th century. It's the "young" mosque in our neighborhood! Tomorrow we visit the OLD mosque, Hagia Sofia, originally a church of Constantinople, built in the the 6th century, and way later was converted to a mosque by the Turks (shout out to Mrs. Fender!). Tomorrow we will visit Hagia Sofia right when it opens because today by around 11 the place was packed. We also visited the Grand Bazaar today, and we plan to go back later to make a few purchases! We also made our way by public bus (yay us for figuring that out!) to the Kariye Museum, which has really incredibly preserved mosaics and frescos from the 14th century. Ironically the reason for how well they've held up stems from the church's conversion to a mosque. All the scenes from the New Testament were plastered over and thus protected until they were uncovered in the 1940's!!! They are (according to Fodor's) some of the finest examples of original Byzantine mosaics and frescos in the world. That's all I can report tonight because my thumbs are tired! These entries are coming to you from my blackberry courtesy of the free wireless at the Hotel Cosmopolitan. Love, besos y abrazos! Meagan

Dinner in Istanbul on night 1

View of Blue Mosque from hotel

Arriving just in time for rush hour (bad) and sunset (good!)

After flying out of Atlanta yesterday at 5:30 p.m., we arrived at about the same time the following day in Istanbul. Our connection in Barcelona had a short delay, and that plus the 7 hour (I think) time difference had us arriving at the Istanbul airport at about 6 tonight. We are staying in the "Golden Horn" also known as "old Istanbul" or as Enrique just called it "the center of the action." Our "pension" hotel has the most amazing rooftop views of Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque (which is why I picked it!). We haven't done too much tonight, exxcept eat some great Turkish food around the corner from our hotel. We are jetlagged and worn out so I'm going to sign off for now! I will try to post a couple pix that I took if I can figure out how from my blackberry. Love from Turkey! Meagan

Turkish Delight

Tomorrow we embark on our trip to Turkey! We'll arrive on Friday, May 21 and spend the first three days exploring Instanbul. I'm really looking forward to seeing Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque (we'll have views of both from the rooftop of our hotel!), and exploring the Bosphorus waterway, which separates Europe from Asia.
Then we'll take a 4 day tour to Cappadocia, Pamukkale, and Ephesus, come back to Istanbul for a few more days before we head home.

Here is our itinerary the 4-day Tour:

24 th May 2010
NORTH CAPPADOCIA TOUR
08:00 We will Pick up from Cosmopolitan Park Hotel & transfer to Ataturk Airport.
10:05 Depart from Istanbul.
11:15 Arrive in Kayseri. Met on arrival & transfer to Cappadocia.
11:45 Full day tour of North Cappadocia. In this day you will be able to see:

DEVRENT VALLEY: Devrent is situated on the northern slopes of Aktepe, 1km from Pasabaglari (Monks’ Valley) and 5 km from Avanos. The ruins at Devrent are spread over three valleys, which also house several pointed fairy chimneys with large stems.
MONKS VALLEY: The best place to see three-headed fairy chimneys. Pasabag, the Pasha's Vineyard, is surrounded by incredible natural rock formations; a spectacular scene.
AVANOS: A center of terra cotta work of art since 3000 BC, it is a town where you will be invited to visit a traditional pottery workshop, which is possibly set deep into the hillsides. The clay, which comes from the Red River passing through the town, gives life both to the land and to the local economy.
GOREME OPEN AIR MUSEUM: Goreme was an important Christian centre in the early years of the Middle Ages, was a bishopric administered by Mokissos near Aksaray in the 11th and 13th centuries. Despite the vast numer of monasteries, churches and chapels in the vicinity of Göreme, there are not many inscriptions bearing dates. For this reason, these religious buildings are mainly dated according to the iconography or architectural features.
UCHISAR: Uchisar is a troglodyte town situated right in the middle of Cappadocia. It is named after the enormous piece of rock in the center of the town, which was once used as a castle. This extraordinary rock is the highest peak of the area with the view of whole Cappadocia and Erciyes (Argeus) Mountain.
After the tour, you will be transferred back to your hotel at around 18:00. Overnight in Cappadocia. Sos Cave Hotel (Included meals: Lunch)

25 th May 2010
SOUTH CAPPADOCIA TOUR
Breakfast & check out the hotel.
09:30 You will be picked up from your hotel for Full day tour of South Cappadocia. In this day you will be able to see:
KIZILCUKUR: is an isolated valley behind Urgup. It has beautiful rock formation with some great hidden rock-carved churches. The most interesting part of this area is the countless tracks connecting the small villages and towns through vineyards and gardens like a spider net. It is always possible to see villagers working in the area and offering grapes, apples or apricots to you. CAVUSIN: One of the oldest settlements in the area, Cavusin is situated 2km from Goreme, on the Göreme-Avanos road. The Church of St.John the Baptist offers a panoramic view of the village. This church and its paintigs date back to the 5th century, making the oldest church in the region. It had a large courtyard which is unusual for Cappadocia, this has been eroded away however.
HOSPITAL MONASTRY: One of the oldest monastries in Cappadocia.
KAYMAKLI: Kaymakli and Derinkuyu underground cities are the two largest and deepest of the 40 others in Cappadocia. They both have eight floors, although not all are open to the public.
PIGEON HOUSE: Visit the pigeon houses and rock formations.
After tour overnight bus to Pamukkale with non smoking, fully air-conditioned bus at 20:00 (duration 11 hours).There are three breaks on the way for your personal needs. (Included meals: Breakfast & Lunch)

26 th May 2010
PAMUKKALE & HIERAPOLIS TOUR
Arrival in Pamukkale and transfer to hotel to fresh up before start tour.
You will be picked up from your hotel for Full day tour of Pamukkale & Hierapolis. In Pamukkale, you will see the Cotton Cliffs, one of the natural wonders of the world formed by deposits of calcareous salts. Also visit the ancient ruins of the City of Hierapolis with its basilica , theatre and Roman Baths. At the end of the day, we will drive to your hotel in Kusadasi for dinner and overnight stay in Kusadasi. Derici Hotel
(Included meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner)

27 th May 2010
FULL DAY TOUR OF EPHESUS & THE HOUSE OF VIRGIN MARY
09:30 You will be picked up from your hotel for Full day tour of Ephesus & The House of Virgin Mary. First you will visit The Temple of Artemis, which once was one of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. Then you will visit the world famous ancient Greco-Roman City of Ephesus, the most well preserved example in the world. After visiting this impressive site, you will have a lunch break. After lunch, you will visit The House of Virgin Mary, where it is believed she spent her last days. This is a holy place for both Christians and Muslims. After tour transfer to Izmir airport then flight to Istanbul at 21,30 pm . Upon your arrival in Istanbul we will meet you at the airport and transfer to Cosmopolitan Park Hotel. End of tour and services. (Included meals: Breakfast & Lunch)

2.5 years later...Egypt post continued

So I realized tonight, while I uploaded some photos from past trips, that Egypt's entries drop off a ledge out of nowhere. I remember what happened... no internet for the last week of our trip, but so much of our trip... Agra, Abu Simbel, Luxor, the Valley of the Kings, our Nile Cruise... I know I kept a written journal of those days, and at some point when I have some free time I should transcribe those days, plus the trips before I started keeping an electronic "diary" of our travels... China, South Africa, and a lot of days from our Russia trip, when we rarely had internet access. But for now, here are some photos from the rest of our Eygpt trip at least, only 2.5 years late.