I'm finally in an internet cafe, typing on a real computer. Thanks to Sarah who posted my last couple of entries for me! I apologize now because the capitol letters about to stop... The 'shift' button is on the opposite side of the keyboard, so I'm having trouble locating it and it will just be a lot easier from here to be a little less formal and not capitolize every other word.
ok, so varanasi was insane. its the city along the ganges river where hindus come to be baptised and where they want to go before they die, to again be emersed in the river and then cremated along side it. its a city of extreme spiritual importance in their culture. we took a sunrise boat ride along the ganges to see some of the relgious rituals being performed. it was almost dark when we boarded a small row boat with a local guide who took us out on to the river. Although it was so early, the river bed was alive with the temples bells and their notstop clanging. Early risers were washing clothes by soaking them in the water and then slapping and beating them against rocks. Others were bathing. the air had a chill that early in the morning (around 6 AM) and i couldn't believe my eyes (although Fodors had warned us) when a body wrapped in wet cloths floated by our boats. I had to look away and try not to get emotional... its their tradition and if they don't have enough money for cremation, to be let go into the river is their way of burial. The whole trip up the river was surreal... people bathed, washed clothes, swam, and bodies were cremated in the temples along the river beds, smoke stacks rising from the gnats (the hindi word for the river-site temples), all the while the sun was rising on the opposite side of the shore and bells continuously rang out loudly.
The poverty in both Delhi and Varanasi were beyond anything I have ever seen or ever thought I could see. I think I mentioned it before in an easrlier post, but now that we are out of Varanasi and Delhi, I'm so relieved to see that its not absolutely everywhere. Yes, in Karajuraho (sp?) and Orcha where we are now, there are many many very impoverished people, and its beyond any levels of poverty in the U.S. BUT, I'm telling you, Varanasi and Delhi took it to new levels. I think the difference was the squalor. Here in Orcha (and in Kajuraho) there are very very poor people in the streets begging for money, but there (in varanasi and delhi) not only were they impoverished, but the conditions around them were the worst I'd ever seen. The amount of trash -- piled everywhere, paving the streets... and the dirt - dirt roads, dirt floors, dust flying everywhere, in the hair, on their skin, coating everything in a fine layer... and the feces... yes, its that bad. Piles of cow dropping everywhere in the streets. the levels of poverty and the conditions seemed straight out of a unicef ad or a national geographic. And this is IN THE CITY, near the river... you just don't usually see that in the center of the tourism areas... its usually hidden away, but this is just right there, and its so sad.
But the good news is, its not that bad everywhere. We flew from Varanasi to Kajuraho (I think I'm botching the spelling) yesterday and visited the amazing temple ruins there yesterday and again this morning because they were so amazing. The temples were discovered in the late 19th century (I think) by an englishman. They were in the middle of the jungle, completely covered in growth when they were found. The temple domes are meant to replicate the look of the himilayas, each one a peak in the range. And the carvings and sculptures that make up the walls and peaks are so intricate and so in tact, we had to go back this morning again before our guide drove us on to the next city.
We are in Orcha now, which is between Kajuraho and Agra (where the Taj Mahal is). Its a tiny town with two main streets, but it has a wonderful palace that we visited when we arrive. Though the drive was only 102 miles, it took us 4 hours (which is normal) because the roads were so bad. The road was not much bigger than a single lane for most of the drive and our driver never topped 40 mph, with herds of water buffalo, wandering cows, and many other obstacles constantly slowing us down. But it was a scenic trip with a lot of farm land and several villages.
Better run for now, Enrique is waiting for me to go to another site in Orcha.
Hope everyone is doing well!
Love, Meagan
ok, so varanasi was insane. its the city along the ganges river where hindus come to be baptised and where they want to go before they die, to again be emersed in the river and then cremated along side it. its a city of extreme spiritual importance in their culture. we took a sunrise boat ride along the ganges to see some of the relgious rituals being performed. it was almost dark when we boarded a small row boat with a local guide who took us out on to the river. Although it was so early, the river bed was alive with the temples bells and their notstop clanging. Early risers were washing clothes by soaking them in the water and then slapping and beating them against rocks. Others were bathing. the air had a chill that early in the morning (around 6 AM) and i couldn't believe my eyes (although Fodors had warned us) when a body wrapped in wet cloths floated by our boats. I had to look away and try not to get emotional... its their tradition and if they don't have enough money for cremation, to be let go into the river is their way of burial. The whole trip up the river was surreal... people bathed, washed clothes, swam, and bodies were cremated in the temples along the river beds, smoke stacks rising from the gnats (the hindi word for the river-site temples), all the while the sun was rising on the opposite side of the shore and bells continuously rang out loudly.
The poverty in both Delhi and Varanasi were beyond anything I have ever seen or ever thought I could see. I think I mentioned it before in an easrlier post, but now that we are out of Varanasi and Delhi, I'm so relieved to see that its not absolutely everywhere. Yes, in Karajuraho (sp?) and Orcha where we are now, there are many many very impoverished people, and its beyond any levels of poverty in the U.S. BUT, I'm telling you, Varanasi and Delhi took it to new levels. I think the difference was the squalor. Here in Orcha (and in Kajuraho) there are very very poor people in the streets begging for money, but there (in varanasi and delhi) not only were they impoverished, but the conditions around them were the worst I'd ever seen. The amount of trash -- piled everywhere, paving the streets... and the dirt - dirt roads, dirt floors, dust flying everywhere, in the hair, on their skin, coating everything in a fine layer... and the feces... yes, its that bad. Piles of cow dropping everywhere in the streets. the levels of poverty and the conditions seemed straight out of a unicef ad or a national geographic. And this is IN THE CITY, near the river... you just don't usually see that in the center of the tourism areas... its usually hidden away, but this is just right there, and its so sad.
But the good news is, its not that bad everywhere. We flew from Varanasi to Kajuraho (I think I'm botching the spelling) yesterday and visited the amazing temple ruins there yesterday and again this morning because they were so amazing. The temples were discovered in the late 19th century (I think) by an englishman. They were in the middle of the jungle, completely covered in growth when they were found. The temple domes are meant to replicate the look of the himilayas, each one a peak in the range. And the carvings and sculptures that make up the walls and peaks are so intricate and so in tact, we had to go back this morning again before our guide drove us on to the next city.
We are in Orcha now, which is between Kajuraho and Agra (where the Taj Mahal is). Its a tiny town with two main streets, but it has a wonderful palace that we visited when we arrive. Though the drive was only 102 miles, it took us 4 hours (which is normal) because the roads were so bad. The road was not much bigger than a single lane for most of the drive and our driver never topped 40 mph, with herds of water buffalo, wandering cows, and many other obstacles constantly slowing us down. But it was a scenic trip with a lot of farm land and several villages.
Better run for now, Enrique is waiting for me to go to another site in Orcha.
Hope everyone is doing well!
Love, Meagan
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